Ivy League halls and coal-fired apizza
New Haven is a small city with an outsized footprint, defined by Yale but not contained by it. The Green at its center is one of the oldest public squares in the country, laid out in 1638 as part of a nine-square grid that predates almost every other planned town in America, and flanked by three churches from three different centuries. The pizza is the other institution. Frank Pepe started baking in a coal-fired oven in 1925, and the thin, charred, irregular style he made is called apizza here and defended with total seriousness — the white clam pie ends most arguments. The city also claims to have invented the hamburger, at Louis' Lunch, which still refuses to serve ketchup. Yale's Peabody Museum and Center for British Art are free and extraordinary.
